Death Tongariro Alpine Crossing

"Oh. My. God. I'm going to die."

That's what I thought, as I stood at the edge of Devil's Staircase, a 500-meter climb that's the first challenge on the Tongariro Crossing, one of the most challenging day hikes in New Zealand.

A 19-kilometer track that traverses New Zealand's Tongariro National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Tongariro Crossing is a bucket-list hike for many adventurous travelers. It's also known for being brutally tough.

In addition to the Staircase, the Crossing features an active volcano, Mount Ngauruhoe, known to Lord of the Rings fans as Mount Doom; a stunning set of emerald-green crater lakes; and scree slopes that can test even the most seasoned hiker.

My friend, Jane, and I are no strangers to hiking. We bring snacks, and I bring a ridiculous number of layers because I'm perpetually cold. Still, we were ill-prepared for the mental and physical challenge that the Crossing presented.

After an hour-long bus ride from our hotel in Taupo to the starting point at Mangatepopo Valley, we stood at the edge of Devil's Staircase.

The first step was a doozy. And the second. And the third. I planted each trekking pole solidly in the ground to support my weight as I pulled myself upwards. "This is totally fine," I told Jane between huffs and puffs.

The views up top, though, made it all worth it. As we wound our way through the park, the terrain changed from verdant valleys to desolate deserts to volcanic peaks. The scenery was otherworldly.

But the beauty came at a cost. The track was relentless, the climbs never-ending. The famed Emerald Lakes, vibrant blue-green pools that formed in the craters of Mount Tongariro, were the reward for several arduous hours of switchbacks.

By the time we reached the summit of Mount Ngauruhoe, we were in rough shape. I had forgone water in order to save weight, a mistake that left me lightheaded and sucking wind. Jane had rolled her ankle on the scree slopes.

The descent was somehow worse than the climb. We took baby steps down the loose volcanic rock, praying we wouldn't tumble all the way to the bottom. Please let this be over, I thought.

After six hours, we finally spotted the DOC hut that marked the end of the Crossing. We collapsed onto a bench, utterly spent. As we waited for the bus back to Taupo, I couldn't help but feel a sense of accomplishment.

The Tongariro Crossing is not for the faint of heart. It's a tough, challenging hike that will test your limits. But if you're up for it, it's an experience you'll never forget.

Just remember to bring plenty of water.