Greek Islands: readers' tips, recommendations and travel advice

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Tulip time | North-west Crete is glorious in April. The White Mountains, covered in snow, make a glorious backdrop to the flower-filled olive and orange groves. Drive up the mountain road to the Omalos Plateau, and see rare tulips and the Samaria Gorge. Take the Sougia road out of Omalos, before heading inland through walnut and chestnut groves, alive with migratory birds. Stop at Deres for Greek coffee and yogurt at Yanni’s taverna, and buy his olives and honey raki.

Visit the huge cave of Saint John the Hermit, in the tiny village of Marathokefala, where the view of the coast towards Maleme is spectacular. From there, it’s a few minutes’ drive to Vouves to see the world’s oldest recorded olive tree, ancient and gnarled, and still bearing fruit. Visit the Minoan harbour at Falasarna, then avoiding the goats, drive along the windy coastal road to Sfinari, and lunch by the sea with Eleni and Yanni at their Sunset Taverna. Perfect.

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Picture postcard | While on holiday in Kalkan, we heard about a tiny Greek island called Kastellorizo (Meis in Turkish) a mile or two off the Turkish coast in the eastern Mediterranean. So we went to Kas to catch the ferry to the island and were met by the most stunning, colourful harbour, which was like a picture postcard. The island is about five square miles and most of the action is around the harbour with its bars and tavernas. Strolling around the unspoilt village was wonderful. Historically the island has been in the hands of the Turks, French, Italians, British and Greeks, and there is a small museum to visit.

We hired a water taxi, which took us to an isolated beach where we were deposited with the promise of a pickup in time for the ferry back. Four of us had a couple of hours there swimming totally alone. It was absolutely magical, and sure enough the water taxi returned to deliver us back to the harbour as promised. What an unforgettable experience.

Wartime memories | A day trip on Crete to little-known sites with no entrance fees and few tourists. From Rethymnon take the road to Armeni to explore the Minoan cemetery, more than 200 chambered passage graves in a grove of olive and oak trees. Nearby is a tiny bakery, where we drank peach tea and ate cheese and spinach pies, tiny apple pies and mushed grape desserts in the sunshine. Next we drove to the Commonwealth War Graves Commission cemetery by the sea at Souda Bay then headed farther west for the German war cemetery on a hillside known as Hill 107 at Maleme, the site of early fighting in the battle for Crete where the German invasion began in May 1941. Next to the entrance is a small café with a huge collection of Second World War memorabilia inside and out.

Island to island | Travel “light”, to enjoy the freedom offered by the Greek islands. Arriving at Athens airport take the 96 bus to Pireaus and an overnight ferry to, say, Amorgos in the Cycladic group, sailing your way back through the beautiful islands. Arriving at any island, before docking, scan the horizon for seaview rooms, ignore the touts and head straight to the rooms you located and negotiate with the owners direct. Rooms are often basic but clean and with friendly owners. Amorgos has a sense of solitude and an “away-from-it-all feel”. It is a rocky island with dramatic walks along its spine from Katapola to Eyiali passing the impressive Hozoviotissa Monastery carved into the mountainside.

Returning, visit Koufonisia on the way to Paros and eat at the Mouragio fish restaurant in Parikia, where the octopus hang out to dry.

Sifnos next – great walking, hilly landscape, sprinkled with white Cycladic villages. Visit Apollonia for its “windmill topped” views. The south coast has several white sand beaches. Buy “Topo” maps, available on most islands, and I suggest you spend two to three days on each, using the relaxing ferries and not the claustrophobic hydrofoils to get around.

Stunning Symi | You must visit Symi, one of the Dodecanese Islands. This is a beautiful, mountainous island with many secluded coves and beaches. It is easily reached from Rhodes via regular ferry services. The approach to the island town of Gialos is quite magical with the neoclassical houses spreading out from the harbour, clinging to the steeply rising hills beyond. On the island, the gorgeous bays and pebbled beaches are best reached by small boats that leave the harbour regularly – St Nicholas and Nimborios are my favourites. There are many lovely restaurants along the quayside but for a great dining experience take an evening walk up the 500-step Kali Strata, which is lined with old classical mansions painted in warm colours, and choose from several restaurants that give magnificent views over the town and harbour. Stay at Hotel Nireus and get a sea-facing balcony room.

The landlady knows... | On the relatively undiscovered island of Milos, Cyclades, rent a bijou self-catering apartment, with simple blue and whitewash airy rooms, from Terry’s Tours (terrysmilostravel.com), right on the edge of the main village, Adamas. Ours had a private shady terrace, sheltered by undulating vines, right on pretty Lagada beach. Terry’s is not listed in guidebooks or online, but the landlady knows the island inside out, provided free bikes, tips from daily tidal information to how to barter for best moped deals and left traditional cakes by her mother-in-law in our fridge for our return each day. Bring binoculars: from the balcony you can spot celebrity yachts coming in to dock at the harbour.

Perfect pitch | If you want: the joy of a short ferry ride where you watch the ancient harbour slowly come into view. An island with so much history, an amphitheatre and ancient ruins open to the elements as well as the children who use them as their playground. An idyllic temperature and climate, which adds to the delight of the soft sand beaches and calm seas. The most wondrous sunsets which set light to your heart as much as the sky. Folk who welcome you like long-lost friends, and will never forget you. The smell of pine trees which wafts through the air and warms you. A mountain full of drama within which you just know the gods abide, feasting on the honey from the local hives. Then this is for you. Where is it? Thassos.

Reborn youth | The short breakfast flight from Athens to Kalymnos provides idyllic views of the coastal geography and an exciting mountaintop landing. The mountainside-hugging taxi ride to the working harbour should be enough to convince even the most hardened BlackBerry user that one’s holiday has begun. After eating al fresco on the harbour, take the pre-booked ferry to Patmos, which allows an opportunity to endure deck-top wind burn. The Patmos dock is larger than expected. Convenient scooter hire allows reborn youth its head as hidden bays and the historic clifftop Greek Orthodox church become accessible.

Another ferry into the crescent harbour bay of Leros is rewarded by instant access to the local delicacies. For the historian there’s the chance to visit the immaculate Second World War graveyard and the peak-top fortress, the battle for which was critical to preventing German dominance in the Aegean.

Bread of heaven | I recommend Ithaka, one of the smaller, less touristy, islands (as there are so many beaches many of them are just numbered rather than named). The whole time I was there we went to different beaches and rarely had to share with other people. The people of the island are very friendly, and there is plenty of history to keep you occupied if you’ve had too much beach time. The sunrise was so amazing. We went to the bakery early in the morning to get some fresh Greek baking then sat and watched it every day we were there – an unforgettable experience.

Super Santorini | You can afford to visit the stunning island of Santorini. You really can. Toast your arrival with tasty dolmades and a glass of sweet local vinsanto wine – there is a taverna opposite the airport. Hire a quad bike, and chase the sunsets at the romantic Akrotiri lighthouse in the south, or from the charming whitewashed hillsides of Oia to the north. Enjoy al fresco breakfasts with the sights, scents and sounds of the Aegean Sea. Treat yourself to beautiful handcrafted gifts from the enchanting alleyways of Thira. Enjoy stunning views, wonderful weather and warm hospitality, you will create magical memories on this romantic island, that will have you aching to return.

Costly battle | The Souda Bay War Cemetery, on Crete, is the most beautiful one you will ever visit. The whiteness of the headstones and simple central cross monument is accentuated by the deep blue of the sea and sky. The cemetery appears to be situated by a large lake, but is actually on the edge of an isthmus, with a large mushroom-shaped peninsula on your left, as you admire the peaceful sea view. Maintenance is impeccable; the lush, freshly watered grass is cool and moist on your feet, as you explore.

The headstones tell the story of 2,000 brave young men from Commonwealth countries, who never returned home. On May 20 1941, German troops invaded the island and the 10-day battle of Crete commenced. It was a German victory, but a costly one, as more than 4,000 Germans were also killed or missing.

Crystal clear | I’d suggest going to the beautiful Greek island of Kos. We stayed in an all-inclusive hotel – Club Magic Life. It had a wonderful variety of activities going on inside and outside the hotel. However, the highlight of the trip was going on a three-island boat trip around the area, on which we enjoyed authentic Greek cuisine cooked by the boat’s captain. We then explored the crystal-clear seas and the wonderful Greek fishing communities on each of the small islands. Brilliant.

No hesitation | So, I pondered “If I could revisit only one Greek island…?” And I had to conclude with little hesitation; Folegandros. I’d wander its cliff-edge Kastro, built to repel pirate attacks, now a maze of narrow, flower-filled alleyways; stroll into the exquisite Chora – a tumbling succession of leafy, bougainvillea-scented squares of colourful kafenions and small whitewashed churches. Traditional tavernas tempt with goat, rooster and rabbit from the farmsteads of this arid, yet surprisingly productive, small Cycladian island.

I’d take the island bus to the unspoilt, rural Pano Meria and walk back along the dusty spinal track; hire a car for one day and explore the secluded sandy beaches. Just before dusk I’d stroll up the whitewashed zigzag path to the Panagia church high above the Chora to watch the sunset stain the buildings pink. Three, four, five days, that’s all I would need. And leave wanting more.

Celebrity appeal | My Greek friend once recommended the island of Mykonos, 14 years ago, as the hot spot for the jet-set lifestyle, lively nightlife and beautiful sunsets. The island is small and secluded and this is part of its charm with sandy beaches pulling you in and many café bars located along the shoreline.

The perfect location to view the shoreline is high up in the Blu-Blu Lounge, which frames views of the Aegean Sea and mesmerises you when the waves collide and glisten with the sunlight to make you feel on the edge of the world. Takeaway bars are popular and remain hidden down the narrow backstreets, with Jimmy’s takeaway a popular choice. My favourite was chicken souvlaki with chips and tzatziki sauce. It’s the perfect snack to enjoy the views outside and see the local mascot, which is a pelican called Petro, wander around the town as if he’s the main celebrity.